There are many ways to determine the condition of your hair.  If your hair is dry, shedding or even dull, that means theirs something lacking or build up.  How do you tell what condition your hair is in? First let's figure out what the different options are.


Is your hair dry and dull?  When you touch it probably sound dry. Wondering what’s causing it?
First you have to ask yourself a few questions.

  • How often are you shampooing your hair?

  • What products are you using?

  • How much minerals is in the water?  

  • Is it hard water or soft?

  • How harsh is the sun on the hair?

  • How’s the humidity level?

Shampooing the hair too often will cause dryness and then breakage.
Shampooing mean when your using soap solution to remove buildup, oil,
sweat and dirt from your hair. The hair is striped of everything.
It causes issues like dryness, scalp flakes and itchiness.
Try not to shampoo too often because the hair needs time to produce it's
natural oils.  Curly hair doesn’t produce as much oil as straight hair,  so
when the hair is shampooed then it removed the oils needed to keep the
moisture in and to protect the hair cuticles. 
What does the product you're using doing for your hair? Is the product
moisture base or protein base? How is it being used. Are you using too
much or too little?

Just because its hair products don’t mean it’s good for the hair. Hair
products is the important for the hair. It’s like food is very important for the

How is your water content?

How do you know if hard water is affecting your hair?

  • Your hair does not absorb products

  • No shine (dullness)

  • Frizzy even when you use products

  • Weights down (heaviness)

  • Does not absorb products

  • Grayish hue on the hair

What is the best way to remove the mineral deposist on the hair?

Some of the best ways is to cleanse the hair using the ingredients below to detox it. It’s not easy to remove it with just one wash, it takes time.

  • Use Baking soda has a PH from 8-9 when mixed with water so it helps raise the cuticles and remove buildup.

  • Bentonite clay is like sand and are able to trap small particles and positively charged ions.  It makes it easy to be washed away. 

  • Rhassoul Clay It can also remove heavy metal toxins like lead.  It's much gentler than shampoo.

  • Use apple cider vinegar as a rinse.  It's acidic and has a PH of 4.  It's a natural disinfectant, and a neutralizer.  Because it's acidic, it helps to remove the scaly buildup from your hair plus it balances the ph of the hair, smooths down the cuticles, and leaves the hair feeling soft and adds shine.

  • Lemon/Lime is also good since its acidic and helps remove buildup.

  • Attach a shower filter. It helps to reduce chlorine, and repels so many other harsh chemicals from hard water.

  • Use a nontoxic gentle clarifying shampoo to help clarify and remove the minerals. Some clarifying shampoos can be harsh on the hair so be mindful.


1/2 cup of apple cider
2 tablespoon of baking soda  (Back Soda)
Mix them together into a paste then rub it thought the hair and scalp.
You can also mix
1/2 apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup of either clay into a paste
Rub it into the hair for as long as you feel.  Rinse it thoroughly out of the hair
and then proceed with oiling the scalp and moisturize the hair and then style
your hair to your liking.
 Its best to do this cleansing 1 a month or when you feel the hair needs it


  • Use apple cider vinegar as a rinse.  It's acidic so it helps to remove the 

         scaly buildup from your hair plus it balances the PH of the hair, soothes 

         down the cuticles, and leaves the hair feeling soft.

  • Lemon/Lime is also good since its acidic and helps remove buildup.

  • Attach a shower filter. It helps to reduce chlorine, and repels so many other harsh chemicals from hard water.

  • Use a nontoxic gentle clarifying shampoo to help clarify and remove the minerals.  

       Some clarifying shampoos can be harsh on the hair so be mindful.


Hair Porosity is your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture.  It's important for the hair to be able to do that.  That's how the hair is protected and happily grows the way you wish.  

There are 5 levels of porosity but the average levels are low, normal or high.
It's important to know the porosity level of your hair so you can manage your curls better. 
 We've been told to do a test strand in water to see if the hair floats or sink and i must say that it’s not accurate. Porosity depends on the molecular weight of your hair in water. It also depends of the texture of your hair and can change when you alter your natural hair with heat or chemicals.      
For example: 

  • Color, relaxer, perm, keratin treatments etc.

  • Heat damage from using flat irons or too much blow drying

  • The sun, pollutions, environment

Another way to determine the porosity levels are by checking it's grade:
Grade 1:  This type of hair is virgin and has never been treated with heat, has no sun damage nor treated with chemicals.  The hair can be detangle without 
conditioner.  It’s very healthy.  This type of hair is very rare.  It doesn’t absorb anything because the cuticles are sealed.  The only thing that can open the cuticles is warm water or any type of heat.  All this hair needs to maintain it is just conditioning shampoo,  a good leave-in conditioner and styling products. (low porosity) 
Grade 2:  This type is most people that experience, sun damage, salt water dryness, environmental pollution, a little color and some heat.  This hair can sometimes be detangled without using any conditioner.  All it needs is a good light shampoo, a moisturizing conditioner, a leave in and then a good styling product. (low porosity)Low porosity

  • Your curls take longer to become completely wet.

  • Your curls take too long to dry.

  • Oils don't penetrate the strand but instead sits on the surface.

  • Products build up on the curls rather than absorbs into the curls.


  • How to maintain low Porosity hair?

Low porosity hair has cuticles that are difficult to penetrate since its closely compacted.  See the photo above:
It's hard for moisture to be absorbed even though it retains (holds) moisture pretty well.  To raise the cuticles, follow this tips:


First, it needs heat to open the cuticles.  Either use warm filtered water if your water is hard.  Then a good deep penetrating conditioner or hair restoration conditioner.  Cover the hair with a plastic cap or a warm towel and sit under a hooded dryer.  If you don't have a dryer then your body heat will do.  Heat is the key to allow the cuticles to open and the products to be absorbed and bound.

  • Make sure the hair is damp and not soaked.

  • Make sure the product is evenly distributed throughout the hair

         and don't use too much.

  • Use gentle shampoos and also baking soda to strip product build


  • After the treatments,  seal the hair with apple cider vinegar rinse.

Grade 3:  This type is when the hair has been flat ironed , relaxed, light hair color,  has done keratin treatments.  This hair condition needs a good moisturizing treatments, sometimes protein treatments, deep conditioner treatments.  #(Normal porosity)

Normal Porosity

  • The hair easily accepts and retain moisture inside the cuticle.

  • The curls are bouncy and full of elasticity and hold a style for a good

          amount of time.

  • The hair doesn't require maintenance.

  • The hair takes color pretty well.


  • How to maintain normal porosity hair?

Normal Porosity has cuticles that are compact and absorbs moisture pretty well.  Continue with the regimen using deep conditioners to maintain its health and condition. In this state, the hair is pretty healthy.
Grade 4:  This type is when the hair has been bleached, is frizzy from too much heat damage, or any extreme chemicals that are causing the hair to break when you comb or brush it. At this stage, the hair has begun to loose its cuticles, which causes flakiness and breakage.  It needs all sorts of treatments regularly and trimming. (High porosity) 
Grade 5:  The hair is so damaged the only thing that can be done is to cut it off.  Example:  bleaching to the level of whiteness, or chemicals that are causing your hair to shed no matter what you do. The hair is stiff, it can’t hold a curl.  It looks really dry and just rough.  At this point,  It's unfixable. (High porosity)

High Porosity

  • Curls absorb water quickly.

  • Water dries up very quickly from the hair

  • Curls looks and feels frizzy and dry.

  • Curls break easily when combed.

  • Hair doesn't maintain a style for too long.

How to maintain high porosity hair?

  • Use gentle moisturizing shampoos.

  • Use very little heat including blow dryer. It's best to air dry.

  • Incorporate conditioners regularly.

  • Use wide tooth coms when detangling your hair to avoid breakage.

  • Rinse your hair with cold water to help seal your ends after treatments.

  • Cover the head with a silk or satin bonnet for bed.


What is coarse hair?


Coarse hair determines how thick each hair strand is not how tightly curly. Most Asians and red natrualy red hair people have coarse hair.  This hair type is like wire.  It’s sometimes resistant to styles.  It can be frizzy and at time feels rough.


The diameter of coarse hair is largest of all textures.  Because of that, it tends to repel moisture and the ends tend to be dry.


What is fine hair?


Fine hair determines how thin each hair strand is on the head not the number of hairs on your scalp.  People with fine hair usually have more hair on their scalp than any other hair.  Each strand has an oil gland attached so fine hair tends to get oily and limp quickly depending on the texture.  Since the strands are so thin, it can break easily when being combed.  It usually lacks volume for some, which makes the scalp easily visible through the hair.


Screen Shot 2020-10-21 at 10.01.28 PM.pn

 Elasticity is the measure of how much the hair can stretch and then return to its original state. Healthy hair when wet will stretch about 50% of its actual length then return to its normal length without breaking. There are 3 types of hair elasticity.  Low, normal and high.  Normal and hight elastic hair is easily styled using rollers, twist and fingers etc and hair with low elasticity cant hold a curl or style long enough.  Also, it seems dry and brittle.

Elasticity test:  The best way to test your elasticity is to check 4 different sections of the hair.  Take a section of hair while it's still wet with your fingertips and stretch it and release it.  If the hair bounces back to its original length then you have normal to high elasticity.  If the hair breaks or losses its curl pattern then you have low elasticity.