What is your hair condition?


There are many ways to determine the condition of your hair.  If your hair is dry, shedding or even dull, that means theirs something lacking or build up.  How do you tell what condition your hair is in? First lets figure out what the different options are.


What causes dryness?


Is your hair dry and dull?  I'm sure your wondering what is causing it.  First you have to ask yourself how often are you shampooing your hair?  What type of water is comming out of the faucet?  Is it hard water?  Is the sun too harsh on the hair?

  The most common cause of dry hair for starters is the water.  Hard water is when the water runs through chalk, gypsum and or limestone deposits which are made of calcium, magmesium carbonates, bicarbonates and sulfates.  

 

How do you know if hard water is affecting your hair?

 

  1. Your hair does not obsorb oroducts
  2. No shine (dullness)
  3. Frizzy even when you use products
  4. Weights down (heavyness)
  5. Does not obsorb products
  6. Grayish hue orver the hair

What is the best way to remove the mineral deposits from the hair?

 

Use 

 

  • Baking soda has a PH from 8-9 when mixed with water so it helps raise the cuticles and remove buildup.
  • Bentonite clay is like sand and are able to trap small particles and positively charged ions.  It makes it easy to be washed away. 
  • Rhassoul Clay It can also remove heavy metal toxins like lead.  It's much gentler than shampoo.
  • Use apple cider vinegar as a rinse.  It's acidic and has a PH of 4.  It's a natural disenfectant, and a nutrilizer.  Because it's acidic, it helps to remove the scaly buildup from your hair plus it balances the ph of the hair, smoothes down the cuticles, and leaves the hair feeling soft and adds shine.
  • Lemon/Lime is also good since its acidic and helps remove buildup.
  • Attach a shower filter. It helps to reduce chlorine, and repells so many other harsh chemicals from hard water.
  • Use a nontoxic gentle clarifying shampoo to help clarify and remove the minerals.  Some clarifying shampoos can be harsh on the hair so be mindful.

How do you mix up the ingredients to remove the buildup from your hair?

 

1/2 cup of apple cide

2 tablespoon of baking soda  (Back Soda)

Mix them together into a paste then rub it thought the hair and scalp.

 

You can also mix

1/2 apple cider vinegar

1/2 cup of eaither clay into a paste

Rub it into the hair for as long as you feel.  Rinse it thouroughly out of the hair and then proceed with oiling the scalp and moisturize the hair and then style your hair to your liking.

 Its best to do this cleansing 1 a month or when you feel the hair needs it

 

  Another common issue with dry hair is that most people are shampooing their hair too often.  Once a week is too much for curly hair.  It can cause so many problems.  The hair needs time to produce it's natural oils.  Curly hair doen't produce as much oil as straight hair,  so when the hair is shampooed then it removed the oils needed to keep the moiture in and to protect the hair cuticles. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to protect your hair from hard water?

 

  • Use apple cider vinegar as a rinse.  It's acidic so it helps to remove the scaly buildup from your hair plus it balances the ph of the hair, smoothes down the cuticles, and leaves the hair feeling soft.
  • Lemon/Lime is also good since its acidic and helps remove buildup.
  • Attach a shower filter. It helps to reduce chlorine, and repells so many other harsh chemicals from hard water.
  • Use a nontoxic gentle clarifying shampoo to help clarify and remove the minerals.  Some clarifying shampoos can be harsh on the hair so be mindful.

HAIR POROSITY


 

 Hair Porosity is your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture.  It's important for the hair to be able to do that.  That's how the hair is protected and happily grows the way you wish.  

There are 5 levels of porocity but the average levels are: low, normal or high.

It's important to know the porosity level of your hair so you can manage your curls better. 

 

 

 We've been told to do a test trand in water to see if the hair floats or sink and i must say that its not accurate. Porocity depends on the molecular weight of your hair in water. It also depends of the texture of your hair and can change when you alter your natural hair with heat or chymicals.      

 

For example: 

  •   Color, relaxer, perm, karatin treaments etc
  •   Heat damage from using flat irons or too much blow drying
  •   The sun, pollutions, inviroment

 

Another way to determine the porosity levels are by checking it's grade:

 

Grade 1:  This type of hair is virgin and has never been treated with heat, has no sun damage nor treated with chemicals.  The hair can be detangle with out conditioner.  Its very healthy.  This type of hair is very rare.  It dosen't obsord anything because the cuticles are sealed.  The only thing that can open the cuticles is warm water or any type of heat.  All this hair needs to maintain it is just conditioning shampoo,  a good leavin conditioner and styling products. (low porocity) 

 

Grade 2:  This type is most people that experience, sun damage, salt water dryness, enviromental pollusion, a little color and some heat.  This hair can sometimes be detangled without using any conditioner.  All it needs is a good light shampoo, a moisturizing conditioner, a leave in and then a good styling product. (low porocity)Low porosity

  • Your curls take longer to become completely wet.
  • Your curls take too long to dry.
  • Oils don't penetrate the strand but instead sits on the surface.
  • Products build up on the curls rather than absorbs into the curls.

 

  • How to maintain low Porosity hair?

     

       Low porosity hair has cuticles that are difficult to penetrate since its closely compacted.  See the photo above:

     

    It's hard for moisture to be absorbed even though it retains (holds) moisture pretty well.  To raise the cuticles, follow this tips:

    First, it needs heat to open the cuticles.  Either use warm filtered water if your water is hard.  Then a good deep penetrating conditioner or hair restoration conditioner.  Cover the hair with a plastic cap or a warm towel and sit under a hooded dryer.  If you don't have a dryer then your body heat will do.  Heat is the key to allow the cuticles to open and the products to be absorbed and bound.

    • Make sure the hair is damp and not soaked.
    • make sure the product is evenly distributed throughout the hair and don't use too much.
    • Use gentle shampoos and also baking soda to strip product build up.  
    • After the treatments,  seal the hair with apple cider vinegar rinse.

 

 

 

Grade 3:  This type is when the hair has been flat ironed , relaxed, light hair color,  has done karatin treaments.  This hair condition needs a good moisturizing treatments, sometimes protien treatments, deep conditioner treatments.  (Normal porocity)

 

Normal Porosity

 

  • The hair easily accepts and retain moisture inside the cuticle.
  • The curls are bouncy and full of elasticity and hold a style for a good amount of time.
  • The hair doesn't require maintenance.
  • The hair takes color pretty well.

 

How to maintain normal porosity hair?

 

Normal Porosity has cuticles that are compact and absorbs moisture pretty well.  Continue with the regimen using deep conditioners to maintain its health and condition. In this state, the hair is pretty healthy.

 

 

Grade 4:  This type is when the hair has been bleached, is frizzy from too much heat damage, or any extream chymicales that are causing the hair to break when you comb or brush it. At this stage, the hair has began to loose its cuticles, which causes flakiness and breakage.  It needs all sorts of treatments regularly and trimming. (High porocity) 

 

Grade 5:  The hair is so damaged the only thing that can be done is to cut it off.  Example:  bleaching to the level of whiteness, or chemicales that are causing your hair to shed no matter what you do. The hair is stiff, it cant hold a curl.  It looks really dry and just rough.  At this point,  It's unfixable. (High porocity)

 

 

 

High Porosity

 

  • Curls absorb water quickly.
  • Water dries up very quickly from the hair
  • Curls looks and feels frizzy and dry.
  • Curls break easily when combed.
  • Hair doesn't maintain a style for too long.

 

How to maintain high porosity hair?

 

  • Use gentle moisturizing shampoos.
  • Use very little heat including blow dryer. It's best to air dry.
  • Incorporate conditioners regularly.
  • Use wide tooth coms when detangling your hair to avoid breakage.
  • Rinse your hair with cold water to help seal your ends after treatments.
  • Cover the head with a silk or satin bonnett for bed.

HAIR DENSITY


 Density refers to the number of strands that are on your head or the number of hairs found in 1 square inch of your scalp.  Some scalps have several strands growing out of 1 pore.  The best way to determine the density of your hair is to stand and face the mirror and part your hair.  Can you see your scalp without having to move any hair?  If you can, then more then likely you have low-density (thin) hair.  If you can see a little bit of your scalp then its medium-density and if you can't see any scalp then you have high-density (thick)hair.  With low-density (thin) hair, you should use light products that won't weigh your hair down and also cause buildup. The opposite for high-density hair, use products that are heavy enough to mold your curls into shape and maintain it.

Hair texture


What is coarse hair?

 

Coarse hair determines how thick each hair strand is not how tightly curly. Most Asians and red natrualy red hair people have coarse hair.  This hair type is like wire.  It’s sometimes resistant to styles.  It can be frizzy and at time feels rough.  The diameter of coarse hair is largest of all textures.  Because of that, it tends to repel moisture and the ends tend to be dry.

 

What is fine hair?

 

Fine hair determines how thin each hair strand is on the head not the number of hairs on your scalp.  People with fine hair usually have more hair on their scalp than any other hair.  Each strand has an oil gland attached so fine hair tends to get oily and limp quickly depending on the texture.  Since the strands are so thin, it can break easily when being combed.  It usually lacks volume for some, which makes the scalp easily visible through the hair.


HAIR ELASTISITY


 Elasticity is the measure of how much the hair can stretch and then return to its original state. Healthy hair when wet will stretch about 50% of its actual length then return to its normal length without breaking. There are 3 types of hair elasticity.  Low, normal and high.  Normal and hight elastic hair is easily styled using rollers, twist and fingers etc and hair with low elasticity cant hold a curl or style long enough.  Also, it seems dry and brittle.

Elasticity test:  The best way to test your elasticity is to check 4 different sections of the hair.  Take a section of hair while it's still wet with your fingertips and stretch it and release it.  If the hair bounces back to its original length then you have normal to high elasticity.  If the hair breaks or losses its curl pattern then you have low elasticity.